We dive deep into the details of the JATCO-sourced automatic transmission on Crosswind XUV and Sportivo variants, and come back up with a notion on how to get acceleration that’s closer to how you’d feel it with a stick-shift.
Impressive with its economy, although limited to an 83hp rating because it tops out quickly, the 2499cc 4JA1-L low-boost turbodiesel on the Crosswind packs a big 137lb-ft of peak torque behind that measurement and accelerates quickly enough through a diesel’s typical short-shifting regimen. But that’s with a manual gearbox. The same engine feels very different, sounding more revvy while delivering less acceleration, on the XUV and Sportivo variants with their JATCO-sourced automatic transmissions.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kab8OROpKFs&w=450&align=right]
XUV and Sportivo variants of the Crosswind have bigger, heavier tires, of course, but the difference in performance seems to be caused more by the tall gear ratios on the wide-gapped 4-speed automatic, by the high-stall ratio of its torque converter, and of course, by having to delegate shift control to the gearbox. Isolating it to these factors led me to try a technique derived from that of veteran Lancer A/T owners.
On those sporty Mitsubishi sedans with a 1.5L MIVEC engine and its peaky torque curve driving a 4-speed auto, experts have been surging the accelerator to 3000rpm—the lower edge of the engine’s peak powerband—and then promptly letting off on the gas as soon as the car starts accelerating. This charges the powertrain’s flywheel, cranking in momentum that’ll then deliver smarter acceleration—a surge to quickly overcome the car’s inertia coming off a stop or a slow cruise.
Now, on the Crosswind with its diesel-engine torque curve, the powerband’s meat is from 2000 to 3500rpm. Torque starts at 50% of peak at 1000rpm, climbs rapidly to 88% at 1500rpm, then reaches its 100% figure at 2000rpm before tapering down to 95% at 3000rpm and then to 90% at 3500rpm.
| Isuzu Crosswind Gear Ratios | ||
| Gear | 5-speed M/T | 4-speed A/T |
| 1st | 4.122 | 2.784 |
| 2nd | 2.493 | 1.544 |
| 3rd | 1.504 | 1.000 |
| 4th | 1.000 | 0.694 |
| 5th | 0.855 | n.a. |
| Final | 4.100 | 5.125 |
Problem is that getting a Crosswind A/T to that 2000rpm threshold takes some doing. Rolling out easy from a 750rpm idle will see you triggering an upshift to 2nd gear very quickly at just 10km/h. When that happens, your revs which had been climbing steadily to 2000rpm will drop back down to 1500rpm and stay there while the engine deals with a fairly tall 2nd (1.544:1) and then with an early direct drive 3rd gear (1.000:1).
Consequently, on a Crosswind with an automatic gearbox, you’ll find that engine revs gravitate to 1500rpm and it takes a fairly deep stomp on the gas pedal to get the tachymeter needle moving again. Now, if you give into the urge and stomp on it, you won’t just reach 2000rpm but will likely overshoot. This makes for a disconcerting, obviously wasteful, rev up with much slippage in the torque converter.
That slippage is necessary, tolerance for wide differences between impeller and rotor speeds translates into multiplied torque—indispensable at slow hauling speeds. But it’s not something you always need, and, to be frank, it makes for an inelegant ride, the engine roaring while making acceleration look dismal in comparison. While the Crosswind’s JATCO automatic transmission does have torque converter lockup (creating a hard link between impeller and rotor when the latter’s speed is within 5% of the former), this kicks in only at around 80km/h, late in the acceleration game and only after the upshifts that finally got you to 4th gear.
Now, instead of lamenting this state of things in the torque converter, that hitherto black box that makes stop-and-go traffic crawls far more tolerable, the slippage can be exploited to let you stroke the accelerator. This would be the equivalent of feathering the clutch and stroking the gas pedal to surge up revs on a manual gearbox. Instead of stomping on the gas pedal, give it a two or a three-count pump, quickly charging the flywheel with enough inertia to counter and overcome that of a slow-cruising Crosswind.
A two-count pump—one, a short shallow stroke on the gas, followed quickly by two, the sustained, but just slightly deeper press on the pedal than before you started—will get your revs from 1500 rpm to just under 2000rpm very quickly. A three-count pump—two quick and shallow strokes followed by a third, sustained and slightly deeper pedal push—will get you over 2000 and nearer to 2500rpm smartly enough.
In geek speak: because the torque converter has a high-stall ratio, because it permits and harnesses a lot of slippage, those shallow throttle pumps will speed up the flywheel and impeller in spurts to cavitate the transmission fluid and not yet incur hydraulic resistance. In other words: the pumps let you “slip” in a rev up in quick stages.
I do suggest that you wait until you’re in 2nd gear or higher before pumping up the revs from the default 1500 up to or above 2000rpm. It’s an easy state to recognize. As long as you’re at 10km/h or higher, you’re out of 1st gear and ready to, well, pump things up. Why? It just works out smoother, without the early shift-bump up from 1st gear knocking you off your game.
Then, after a two or three-count pump has put you quickly in the zone between 2000 and 3500rpm, without the hoopla of a roaring engine driving a torque converter with mounting slippage, that’s when you do the Lancer thing and start thinking of easing off the gas pedal as you feel the momentum come on line. You’ll find that easing off the gas is more responsive, can be done with more precision.
End of it all, on a Crosswind with an automatic gearbox, reaching or going beyond that 2000rpm threshold with this two or three-count pump tactic will get you smarter, surprisingly quieter acceleration. You’ll see.
My Isuzu Sportivo A/T 2007, “CHECK TRANS” is blinking what will be the problem?
TPS is already checked No fault found.
Speed sensor checked No fault found.
Wring connection checked No fault found
Hello Mr. Ybañez, thanks for the comment. I understand you as saying that both pressure and speed sensors checked out, as well as the connections tapped into these. The one remaining variable I could suggest checking is the ATFluid in the transmission–check if this has degraded or thinned out because of contamination.
Thank you very much Sir for the response.
The ATF of the transmission was changed last December 19, 2020, but the color is already dark, and according to the mechanic it is the smell like burning.
Happy to help.
It sounds like your transmission overheated and this burned or cooked the ATF. Another ATF change appears in order … but I think you caught the problem before it caused any permanent damage.
If it helps, please keep in mind that the transmission overheating may have been caused by a low ATF level which may be due to a leak (not likely if you didn’t see any oil spills) or not enough fluid having been loaded during your ATF-change last December.
By the way sir, what is the different between Isuzu Panther and Crosswind/ Sportivo?
Thanks in advance.
Good spot there. The Panther and the Crosswind are the same utility vehicle model, just with varying badges or names for different markets. I think ours is the only market where the Isuzu Panther from Isuzu Astra of Indonesia is labeled the Crosswind. In Vietnam, its known by the name Hi-Lander which was once used here for the first-generation Panther … the Hi-Lander name got superseded when sale of the second-generation model overlapped, prompting them to give it a different name: the Crosswind. ON the other hand the XUV and Sportivo labels refer to the top-end variants of the Crosswind line, completing the range that included the Crosswind XS, XL and XT. Good point asking about variant labels because these could also vary (may not even exist as variants) in other markets. 🙂
thank you very much sir for the information.
Hi sir,
Going back to the issue on blinking “Check Trans” the problem has not resolved yet.
New analysis by mechanic is the EGR sensor is faulty.
Please help advise if this new finding is more appropriate.
Hello Mr. Ybañez, sorry to hear about your continuing troubles.
I need to ask: is it the “check transmission” or the “check engine” light that’s coming on now? Reason I ask is that Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve issues typically cause “check engine” alerts (and not transmission alerts). These said, if your mechanic is expert at Crosswind engines with automatic gearboxes, maybe he has seen a similar problem in the past.
Another thing to consider: if this mechanic is the same one who did your ATF change last December, I strongly suggest you get a second opinion from a different mechanic … just in case your problems now were caused by any errors during that ATF change last December.
Hi Sir,
I confirm it is “Check Trans” blinking, I would like to add also it is “Controller EGR” is found faulty, as per mechanic from Isuzu.
This is different mechanic who changed my ATF last December.
Thank you
Hello again Mr. Ybañez. Thanks for the update. I think you’re in good hands now with your guy from Isuzu. He would know more about how the EGR controller issue relates to the Check Trans alert as you described it. I hope your troubles will be over and your Crosswind is rolling again soon.
Hi Sir Gelzon,
I’m happy to inform you that the blinking “CHECK TRANS” is already resolved after the replacement of the Controller EGR.
Till next advise Sir.
Thank you
Nilo
Hello Mr. Nilo,
This is great news, thank you, good call.
Gelzon
PS–Please drop the “Sir” … just “Gelzon” or even “Gel” would be fine. Thanks again. 🙂
Hi Sir,
I’d like to ask about recent issue experience, regarding CHECK Trans appeared once break pump.
ISUZU SPORTIVO 2007 A/T
Hello Mr. Nilo,
How can I help? I understand what you mean about your experience with a “check transmission” problem. What do you mean about “break pump” please?
Gelzon
Hi Gelzon,
I mean, multiple kick on break pedal but not full press – “break pump”
Hello Nilo,
I understand better now. You mean pulsing the brakes (short sudden pushes on the pedal, not stepping constantly on this) is causing your check trans light to come on, yes?
Pulsing the brakes while the transmission is in drive would cause the gearbox’s torque converter to work against a resisting driveline. This is normally acceptable, fluid will just keep pumping between the torque converter’s impeller and turbine.
In your case, the hydraulic pressure in the torque converter seems to spike too much and cause a check trans alarm whenever you pulse the brakes. It could be that your mechanic compensated for past gearbox problems and loaded you with a little too much ATF this time. I can suggest that you have him check the ATF level and, if it’s borderline high, have him drain off a little of it.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Gelzon
I understand better now. You mean pulsing the brakes (short sudden pushes on the pedal, not stepping constantly on this) is causing your check trans light to come on, yes? Yes
Thank you very much Gelzo
Hi Gelzon,
I’d like to ask, were is the engine number location of the 4ja1 engine?
Saan banda it makikita?
Salamat po.
Nilo
Hello Nilo,
The “Isuzu Diesel Engine Model Serial Number Guide” says the 4JA1, like all 4J series engines, has its serial number location at “left rear, top part of cylinder block.”
Also, the YouTube video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnQDdv7ZTfM shows someone trying to stencil a Crosswind’s engine (and chassis) number. The engine number looks more accessible from the bottom than from the top.
I hope these help.
Regards,
Gelzon
thank you very much Gelzo.
Hi Gelzon,
Hope you have a fine day.
I would like to ask regarding the recent issue encountered, blinking of check trans is still persisting.
For now, I observed that it will blink once if it is on free wheel for a few seconds. Or the accelerator pedal is released for a few seconds while running.
Usually, I experience this when it is slow running or traffic movement, in which I only step on the brake pedal all the time.
Hello Nilo,
I haven’t had firsthand experience with anything like this … which makes me favor caution and suggest you bring it in for a follow-on check-up with your mechanic.
This said, I did a quick search for any similar circumstances and the blinking check trans trouble-light you mentioned (if this is all you observe and there’s nothing abnormal about your AT gearbox’s operation otherwise) could be caused by loose or exposed wiring to the transmission sensor. The loose or intermittent contact might be getting jostled whenever fluid pressure inside the gearbox suddenly changes because of braking while in drive or releasing the gears when free-wheeling in neutral … as you described the triggering circumstances.
Since you had the transmission thoroughly checked after that first sign of trouble (when your mechanic replaced the EGR controller), I’m thinking that maybe some connections had been inadvertently left untightened or wiring contacts left exposed. At least its something specific for your mechanic to check and cross off the list of possible causes.
In any case, I do suggest you have your mechanic look at it … and sooner is better than later.
I hope these help.
Regards,
Gelzon
Hi Gelzon,
Free wheel while in D (Drive) mode… most scenario occur when it is in traffic situation in which i only step on break pedal and release to move my vehicle.
Thank you for you usual help.
Regards,
Nilo
Hi Gelzon,
Just to share the update, the issue of my supportive regarding blinking of CHECK TRANS when not being accelerated for a few seconds was already resolved and fix. It was found out during scanning that the throttle voltage is out of range or very low in setting, therefore, it was adjusted and set accordingly.
Thank you for your help and advise
Hello Nilo,
Very good hearing from you … I’m glad the blinking check trans light issue was resolved. 🙂
Gelzon
Hi Gelzon,
I would like to ask, how to replace or remove the light of the spoiler?
I already removed all the screws but the still cannot remove the light.
Thank you for the help.
Nilo
Hello Nilo,
By “light of the spoiler” do you mean the fog lights in the front bumper area? I’ve never removed or replaced factory-installed fog lights myself but I can suggest searching for a “how-to” video for this on YouTube.
I did a quick search for you, I couldn’t find a video specifically for the Crosswind, but I can refer you to the link below which shows how to do it on a Range Rover –> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbBNIQfFKic
The video shows removing the lights by un-mounting the entire bumper–I don’t think you should do that yourself–but it also shows where to look for mounting screws back there, if you can peek behind the bumper even while it is still mounted. Might help point you at where to find the remaining screws on your Crosswind’s fog lights.
IMPORTANT / I REPEAT: I’m saying you SHOULD NOT un-mount your bumper yourself. If it comes to this, better to bring the vehicle to your suki mechanic or car servicer.
Best of luck with your repairs.
Regards,
Gelzon
Hi Gelzon,
I mean the spoiler light on the Baggage door of Sportivo.
My apology for confusion.
Thanks
Nilo
Rear Spoiler with 3rd Brake Light.
Ah-ha, the third brake light on rear spoiler of the Sportivo. Now I understand. I’d suggest the same thing, search for a “how-to” video on YouTube. I did a quick search and, again, could not find one for the Sportivo but I found this one showing how to remove the entire spoiler to get to the third brake light on a Honda Civic. –> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwPkfsYep_4
Apparently, at least on the Civic, you need to dismount the spoiler so that you can push the brake light assembly from the back to pop it out (after removing the screws).
As before, I DO NOT RECOMMEND removing the spoiler yourself if this is what it takes to change out the brake light. Better to bring the vehicle to your suki mechanic or car servicer in that case.
— Gelzon
Thank you very much for the usual help.
God bless.
Nilo
Anytime po
Gelzon
Hi Gelzon,
I would like to ask if the ball joints (upper & Lower) Isuzu Panther from Indonesia can be fitted to Isuzu crosswind sportivo?
Thank you you for usual help in advance.
Nilo
Hello Nilo,
Good question. Isuzu Astra’s Panther is equivalent to our Crosswind so, yes, stock factory parts should be interchangeable. But, please note that this is theoretical to me since I don’t have any first hand experience sourcing any sort of Crosswind parts from other markets. And, it is possible that there are slight differences between Indonesian Panther and Philippine Crosswind parts.
Best regards,
Gelzon